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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Good Quality Product for The Money.

Took me a good long while of using this to see what I can get away with, so here we go! Prep your piece to work, don't just spray and say good. blast it, or sand it. Wipe down with acetone or air blast, both is good. SHAKE THE CAN UNTIL YOUR ARMS ARE NUMB, seriously. Dust and dust to build the coat. Let flash and repeat, I use a heat gun sometimes. The moment you are not using the can throw the nozzle in acetone, that's where mine stay, I use these paint cans off and on for months and all original nozzles still work. Cure temperature and cure time have a big say in how it looks when done. I tend to cure at 450 for 15 mins then kick down to 400 for the remainder of a full 2 hour cook time. I find this gives a decent rich color. If I bake longer at say 250 to 300 the color is lighter than I like. If you don't like how it turns out, play with it and find what you like. at the end of the day THIS IS NOT CERAKOTE stop bombing this product. its meant to be affordable and something to maintain. Given it can be a real pain, but that's the name of the game. The picture is as follows, b5 stock in coyote, b5 grip in coyote, mag is trans fde, handguard, epc, and scope mount are Aluma-hyde Earth Brown, the pistol frame is Brownells P80 in coyote. I have used coyote, earth brown, park grey, dark park grey and wolf grey. these colors can vary so I suggest you get a few test them out, and see if its what you want or spend more.

Amazing stuff.

Amazing stuff used 1 can... 4 coats on my upper, lower and rail 16 radical Wolf Gray

Definitely IS a match to magpul FDE

After reading conflicting reviews from multiple sites on if magpul FDE is actually a color match or not, even calling Brownells to verify, it seems to match nearly perfect. I am very happy with how it turned out. Seems like most of the color-match complaint reviews are from several years back. Nothing recent, but I can vouch on the color matching.

Awsome spray paint

Sprayed this on a rifle and it it seems very durable. Sprayed very well and didn't seem to run as easy as a lot off spray paint's. Worth the money to me.

Best Paint at the Best Price

I only paint firearms that need it bad and have little to no collectors value such as an SKS, AK or old Remington 11-48.. With that in mind, I have tried several versions of Duracoat and Aluma-Hyde II beats it hands down. Duracoat can produce a good finish but at $39 a can it is just too expensive for what it is. After I prepared the finish to a Chi-com SKS, I painted it with Aluma-Hyde II then baked it in my homemade oven at the temperature they recommended (I think it was 225 or 250 degrees for 1.5 or 2 hours). My 'oven' is simply a school locker with insulation and an electric grill element in the bottom. After one year the 2 guns I painted look great.

Wolf gray

Worked great. Wasnt too think. The matte black was much thicker and harder to use. Just keep the can warm and shake constantly. In between sprays clean nozzle with alcohol. Top pic used matte black for barrel and btm used gray on most of the project

Nice, Easy and Durable finish!

Great product and easy to use. I find I get the best results when I media blast the surface. I also like to use the fast cure method on the can for the best results. Several guns done now and I love the stuff! 1st pic is when I got the gun!

After 10 years it still looks new

I used this on my frist gun build almost 10 years ago. It still looks like the day I sprayed it.

Very good product

The best spray on finish i have used,follow the directions and heat the part and Aluma- Hyde to 90 degrees. For best wear resistance and durability speed cure it as directed.

Does what it says

Put a popular synthetic stock on an old 870. Instead of trying to blue the metal, I painted the metal with matte black Aluma-Hyde II. It looks like parkerizing and matches the stock in looks. Still looks new after 2 years.