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ALUMA-HYDE® II Reviews & Ratings

ALUMA-HYDE II

The special feature of Aluma-Hyde II (and the reason for its development) is its increased resistance to bore cleaners, solvents and other cleaning chemicals, even trichloroethylene. Today’s family of fast, aggressive bore cleaners really do a terrific job getting dirty gun bores sparkling clean, but they can wreak particular havoc with any other finish they contact. After full cure, Aluma-Hyde II proved solvent-proof to all but the most aggressive, copper-removing bore solvents. Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - it’s great on synthetic stocks. Aluma-Hyde II is available in a variety of colors to help the gunsmith match the vast number of applications found in the average gunshop. Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Absolutely no primer coat is required for a tough, durable, abrasion-resistant, rustproof finish that blends beautifully and compliments all gun finishing applications.

Each can of Aluma-Hyde II is now supplied with a Clean Out Nozzle, required to be used before each use of the paint to prevent clogs in the Nozzle and Pickup Tube. Aluma-Hyde Clean Out Nozzles allow nearly unrestricted pressure to flow through the pickup tube and nozzle to clear out any semi-hardened paint that may be in the pickup tube. Once clear, replace with the original spray nozzle and start your project. When used correctly, this will ensure a smooth, sputter free paint application free of clumps or inconsistencies.

Additional Clean Out Nozzles can be purchased as singles, 430107431, or in a 12-pack, 084179004. Clean Out Nozzles are not intended for finish spraying.

SPECS: 12 oz. (340 g) aerosol can.

INSTRUCTIONS:

PREP THE SURFACE: NO priming required on clean, bare metal or anodized surfaces. Surface should be dry and free of oil, wax, dirt, loose paint, and any other contaminants. Painted surfaces should be washed with a cleaner degreaser. If cleaning parts with abrasive blasting, make sure blasting media is oil- and silicone-free. Test a small area for color compatibility and adhesion.

• Unpainted aluminum: Abrasive blast to achieve desired surface look/texture.

• Unpainted steel: Remove rust by sanding or abrasive blasting.

• Fiberglass: Sand lightly, then wash with soap and water or clean with a quality cleaner degreaser.

• Wood: Seal or fill surface. ALUMA-HYDE II can be applied over polyurethane and varnish finishes but not over linseed oil or tung oil finishes.

PREP CAN: For best results, use between 70° F and 90° F (not below 65° F). Shake can vigorously until the ball inside rattle; then shake for 2 minutes more to achieve correct color and texture.

INITIAL CLEARING SPRAY: Before spraying work surface, point can in safe direction and depress valve. Press until spray is consistent in color and consistency. The cleanout nozzle can be used in this step for previously used, or even new cans. The cleanout nozzle is used to ensure any residue or buildup is easily ejected from the can. Simply pull the standard nozzle upwards off the can and press the cleanout nozzle down in its place (be careful to point can in safe direction when pressing downwards, as can may discharge spray).

Cleanout Nozzles are included with each can of Aluma-Hyde purchased from Brownells and is available separately. Search item number 430107431.

SPRAY IT ON: Hold can approximately 12” away from the work surface and fully depress valve on top to start the spray. Shake can periodically during application process.

LET IT CURE: This is a critical step in getting a truly tough, long-lasting finish! If a second coat is needed, it should be applied within 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, Aluma-Hyde II must be allowed to cure 10-14 days before recoating.

• Dries to a light touch in approximately 10-15 minutes. Wait 24 hours or more before extensive handling.

• Complete cure time caries depending on film thickness, temperature, and humidity

• Cure time can be reduced by circulating warm air (90°F max.) or placing part in direct sunlight.

• Aluma-Hyde II can be “speed cured” by baking the part for 3.5 hours at 195°F. Allow part to cool before applying another coat.

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Reviews Summary

Aluma-Hyde® II garners mixed feedback, with many users appreciating its cost-effectiveness and ease of application, while others encounter issues with nozzle clogging and inconsistent color matching, particularly with the FDE variants. Durability after curing is generally praised, though some users report chipping and flaking over time. Overall, users recommend proper prep and caution for the best results.

What Reviewers Are Saying

Application Process

70%

Many reviewers emphasize the importance of following the application instructions precisely, including thorough cleaning and allowing adequate cure time. Users highlight that successful application often requires shaking the can extensively and avoiding excessive heat when curing.

Durability

65%

The durability of Aluma-Hyde® II is frequently mentioned, with many users noting it holds up well under regular use. However, some express disappointment when experiencing chipping or wear, especially in high-friction areas.

Color Match

60%

Color consistency is a significant concern. Several users report discrepancies between the color on the cap and the actual paint, particularly with variants like Coyote and FDE. Aluma-Hyde II is described as closer to Sage or light tan rather than the expected hues.

Nozzle and Clogging Issues

55%

Numerous reviews highlight issues with the spray nozzles clogging shortly after use, leading to spattering or inconsistent application. Users recommend purchasing extra nozzles as a precaution.

Value for Money

75%

Despite the mixed feedback, many users find Aluma-Hyde® II to be a cost-effective alternative to professional coatings like Cerakote. The majority feel that it delivers adequate performance for the price, especially for DIY projects.

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Rich brown

This is alittle darker than OEM Magpul FDE but it compliments it well. Highly recommend this product and color unless you want something lighter Ps the nozzle is complete trash, invest in a replacement nozzle pack you will thank me later.

TAKE YOUR TIME

You want to let this stuff dry without touching it (AT ALL) for at least a week. It will feel hard enough after about 2 days, but just leave it. The stuff is really durable if you take your time.

Good stuff

Be sure to shake it extremely well and spray it for a little bit before you apply to your project to make sure the paint is actually flowing bearded phrase on just like spray paint and seems to be extremely thick and durable. I totally stripped my rifle first and did a ton of work with gun scrubber and acetone and had no problems whatsoever with getting it to adhere to the different materials on the rifle

Good stuff

Curing effects color

I wanted something darker than FDE for my receivers and free float hand guard so I ordered the Matte Earth Brown. In the reviews there's a mention of high temperature curing affecting color. I tested this with sockets and this is what happened. First try with a socket I air cured for about 1 day and then oven cured close to what directions say, about 190-195 degrees for about 3-4 hours and ended up with a color very close to Magpul FDE, closer than the Aluma Hyde Magpul FDE. On the second try with a socket I preheated the oven to 425, let it air cure for about 1 hour, put it directly in the hot oven for 20-25 minutes and then turned it down to 200 and let it bake another 3-4 hours. The color from this was a darker shade of FDE. This is when I decided to paint receivers and metal hand guards. After I finished the third coat of Aluma Hyde I let it dry for about 10-15 minutes while I preheated the oven to 450. Baked them at 450 for 30 minutes, turned it down to 400 for another 30 minutes, and then turned it down to 200 for 4 hours. With this method I ended up with a deeper brown color that does not resemble Magpul FDE, more like the SB Tactical / Aero FDE shades, or even the new Pmags in coyote. Side note, maybe it's the heat but the last method came out with a slight gloss. Two things to consider: #1 there are glossy things in nature and #2, a really light rubbing with very fine steel wool once it's cured will dull the shine and create a matte effect.

Perfect For Yeti Mugs

I sprayed my Yeti 10 Oz Lowball and 20 Oz Rambler (both stainless steel color) with the Magpul FDE. 3 coats each and then they sat in the sun (110 temp) for 3 days. Came out perfect!! Been using them every day for past 2 months. Finish is holding up well. Highly recommended.

Great color to paint firearms.

I purchased this to make an old beater Winchester 1300 Defender that had some rust a pitting. It was a pawn shop special. I refinished the barrel and part if the shell tube. It turned out nice and does have a sheen to it. Very happy with the end results. It does look grayish, but with a sparkle. Looks great and outstanding product. I shook the can for over 5 minutes and followed the directions on the can, and cleaned the nozzle in between sprays with a cotton cloth with acetone. Very easy to use. Just make sure your surfaces are prepped and clean. Despite many criticisms regarding use of this product it is quite easy to do.

Great product

Great product , sprayed on easy , put on three coats and never had to change the spray nozzle (as long as you clear it after each use), would definitely recommend.

Good Rifle Finish IF Follow Directions!

I'm using Aluma-Hyde to paint an AR and got 6 or 7 cans of various colors. Colors are great, coverage is very good and finish is durable (so far). Difficulties with use: You really have to have a thought out plan before the first spray, otherwise your results may not be so good. Pay attention to the can's instructions. Be absolutely sure to give it 10 to 14 days to cure (if not using heat to cure). Get a package of extra spray nozzles, you'll thank me for this suggestion. Or keep the nozzles in some sort of thinner in between use of the spray cans. They WILL clog up. When you think you have shook it enough, shake it for another 2 to 3 minutes; you get better color this way.