unbeatable
I have used 6-7 different cold blue products, liquids, pastes, the types you apply or have to immerse. I have done some hot blue-ing as well. In short, Oxpho-Blue is all I use now. Only hot/rust bluing can beat it in durability. Finish tends to look a bit too bluish at first, but it grows much darker after a few days.
The Best Blue
Was having trouble rebluing a 1930's Western Feild. So I tryed Oxpho Blue. It is amazing. This is the only cold blue I will ever use again. I cant wait to see the the end user face when he see's it. Soooooo easy to use. No recleaning and prep every coat. I can find nothing bad about it.
Works like none other
I used it to reblue a friends old Montgomery Ward single shot shotgun and my ak-47. It looks great and it was easy as pie to put on
THIS IS GOOD STUFF
If you prep your metal correctly, this stuff will give you a beautiful bluing job. And you can't tell the difference from a hot blue job or this stuff. I have done several entire guns and people are amazed on how good it looks. Of course it is a little more time consuming but a small price to pay. One key is to practice on scrap steel until you get your technic down and after that you will be doing great bluing jobs.
Top of the line product!
I don't know why the the 4oz bottle got a lower rating than the rest of them, I hope this doesn't confuse anybody. No, it's not a hot blue fine finish- but I'm among many others who believe this to be the best cold blue/touch up available.
Works well
Easy to use, applies smoothly, works as described. My only disappointment is that despite many applications it does not quite match the original finish on the Springfield Mil-Spec 1911.
Patience: Be prepared to repeat a LOT.
I recently restored a S&W Model 36 with Oxpho-Blue. It was pre-suffix with a pinned barrel, but that's no guarantee of an all steel frame. It's possible it is an alloy, but is definitely at least partially steel in the alloy. The compound eventually makes a reasonable bluing, but it required dozens of wettings and steel wool polishings and quite a bit of carding as well to achieve that reasonable level of bluing. PRO: the bluing is noticeably better than compounds like Birchwood-Casey. CON: It takes a lot longer and a lot more elbow grease to achieve this result.
works with certain procedure
In Alabama humidity, if I paint this on and let it dry, it leaves some red after-rust. However, it comes out great if I paint it on, then wipe dry a few seconds later. This can be done several times. Then I end with a rust preventative oil like WD-40 Specialist.
great results on my old Model 10 S&W
I used the creme version on a model 10-10 LE trade in that had an abused finish especially on the cylinder. I cleaned off the oil with alcohol and heated with a hair dryer although not necessary. After the first application I saw good results and applied several applications buffing with 0 steel wool in between until I got the desired coverage. Look at the before and after pics of the cylinder and you be the judge. I also did the top of the strap that was bare steel from holster wear and was causing a glare when trying to aim. I compared the Oxpho blued cylinder with a 10-14 with original finish side by side and I can't see the difference. I would have given it a 5 star rating but I can't judge durability yet.
Great product
Great for BLuing but streaks if your not careful! Buy the crime and but if you buy this one don't buy the small bottle buy the next one up. There's only one problem you have to keep going over the entire area or you will get streaks.
