DAYTON TRAISTER - 93-96 Cock-On-Open Kit

I have now done about five of these. Even a friend asked me to do one for him. At this point I find it actually quite simple to do. Even though at first I used a mill to do it now I don't even bother because it is so simple to do with a moto-tool and a good cutoff wheel. Now when I shoot a cock-on-close rifle it just feels cumbersome. I am even thinking of converting my Remington built M1917 Infield. The main drawback to these is that Brownells is out of them all the time. I just can't get them. I am actually looking to doing my next one. I bought a bunch of M-93 Spanish and Turkish actions to convert to sporting rifles for myself and plan on converting every single one. Here is a picture of the last finished projects using Turkish M-93s converted with these cock-on-open kits. Both chambered in 7.62 x 45 Czech. I am now working on a 7mm-08 Remington and a 243 Winchester with Spanish actions. This is just a hobby for me.

The first one I did took me a bit of time to do because I did not know what I was doing. I just did my second one and It was so simple I can't understand what took me so long the first time. The whole job took me about 30 minutes. and it works great. The instructions are not precise and you get to learn the tricks on the first one you do and the second one is than simple. I now won't have enough projects to do for me to be able and do more of these. I now plan on converting EVERY small ring Mauser I have with this kit. I also love the fact that the cocking piece do not stick out so far back. Once again, I am not a gunsmith by any stretch of the imagination but only a hobbyist.

I agree 100% with the previous review. I only did two of these so far and the first took me an hour to do. The second about 45 minutes. I found that the opening on the back of the bolt had to be cut a bit larger than the instructions recommended. Once I overcame the initial binding and tuff action by making this adjustment, everything became smooth and easy. A little lubricant helps also. At first I was attempting to fit the unit dry and it was a mistake. The largest issue I had was, being my firs attempt to do this, the instructions were not very clear. Once I was able to visualize what the instructions were attempting to convey, I was able to make the apocopate adjustments and everything fell into place, LITELARLY. I did my initial bolt carving on a Bridgeport with a 1/8" carbide cutter and did the final smoothing and fitting with a small air grinder and a cutoff wheel. I combined this unit with a 100-001-866 FN stile shroud and it makes a beautiful combination. I found that it works with any stile trigger. I also found that the spring works the best when the ground portion sits against the shroud and not against the striker. For me, with the spring in the reversed configuration, I found that it had a tendency to bind. I did not allow this experiment to scare me and I had a wonderful result. I am building a few rifles in the obscure 7.62 x 45 Czech cartridge for which the small ring Mauser is a perfect fit and this makes a beautiful rifle out of a military action. With the FN shroud it is a very nice finishing touch. This is a perfect combination for, plinking, hunting deer size game and smaller, target shooting and just all around fun with a rifle that no longer looks like it was a modified military piece.

I've converted a number of M94 Swedish and M95 Chilean Mausers with this kit. While it surly is not as easy to install as the kit they make for the M14-M17 Enfield, with a little patience, a Dremel, and some thought, it can go in. Like all gunsmithing, think about how it should work when it goes in. Follow the instructions, but more than that, visulize the operation. My one hiccup during several times installed (4-5)has been the opening of the bolt the first time it is ready to open on the upstroke of the bolt. The sear seems to gall on the bolt as it exerts unusual pressure to open. Once when converting a M94 I had such a hard time opening the bolt I bent the converted bolt handle with the opening pressure. Thereafter, it functioned smoothly and with little effort. Several other Mausers I converted did not do this. Keep in mind that this series Mauser actions keeps the bolt shroud and cocking piece in place only because the tip of the sear rests in a slight indent you create at the end of the bolt body, where it rests to resist turning accidently, unlike the M98 which has a mechanical interrupt on the bottom of the cocking piece to assure it does not turn on the bolt body until the bolt is going into battery, and a turn of the bolt handle down releases the cocking piece. The M94-95 are lovely little actions, especially for 6 MM Rem, .257 Rbts, and 7X57 Mauser, all which feed without any conversion. If you read Terry Wieland's attempt to blow up a M94 Mauser, you'll discover these are in fact suitable for most cartridges except those with very high PSI.

Not just a simple swap. Mod needed to the bolt its self, the firing pin, and even the possible mod to the cocking fixture they supply. The supplied spring is so stiff that compressing was impossible for me. In addition I could not install the cocking fixture as the spring would compress completely to prevent the shroud going low enough to allow the cocking fixture to be installed.