Semi-Gloss Black

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

After meticulously bead-blasting an old Marlin and prepping the surface, I used this stuff and can say this. If you want a finish that takes a month to cure, and looks like it came out of a spray can, then I guess this stuff is fine. But if you want a professional finish, go buy a $10 airbrush and do it right with DURACOAT. Finish looks ok, but not at all like factory.

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

This isn't super easy to use, but shake it well and keep it around 90F. I used a hair dryer and follow the directions in the videos about aplying this.

Okay, this liked to glob up and spray an uneven "texture" - little blobs because it's an aerosol. If you are looking for something perfect, use Duracoat but this will suffice if you have to.

I used it on a ruger 10|22 reciever and it screwed it up with runs and blobs. I sanded and degreased the reciever and probably didn't have to.
Hold the can about a foot-and-a-half away when you spray, and spray on carboard or something first to make sure the globs works themelves out. Make sure the nozzle is clean also.

Definately not a professional thing but for something like a beat-up AK, this works fine.

This gloss black is supposed to be tougher than the matte so what I did was sprayed this first, let it cure fully, then sprayed matte clear over it and let that cure.

I would say this is slightly above average for an aerosol epoxy paint. Hard to find and costs mmore than it's worth to me. Still reccomendable though.

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

Good product it hides scratches well, deeper scratches can be hid good with primer applyed first. I have only used the semi-gloss

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

I've only used the semi-gloss but it works well & hides light scratches well

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

I used this on an abused Remington 725 I bought as a project gun that had a badly scraped and scuffed trigger guard/floor plate, a part that's made from aluminum.
I sanded off the old remaining finish taking it down to bare metal and polished with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
One word of warning: Let it cure fully before you recoat once it's set for a while — and I mean fully, as 2-3 weeks. Otherwise, the new coat begins to dissolve the old coat and the old coat may wrinkle. My fault that I had to redo. I got in a little too much hurry.
But a little rework took care of that, and it hid a small ding in the aluminum.

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

I have used this stuff in semi-gloss black, and in matte black.

The semi-gloss is my favorite by far, it seems to be more resistant to showing surface scratches, and it's holding up well on a Saiga-12 conversion that I use in 3-gun, and even rolling around in the back of my truck the only finish damage I see is on the plastic handguard and pistol grip.

I used the matte black on a carry gun that was suffering from the slide rusting from IWB summer carry, it's holding up well also but the matte finish surface wear much more than the semi gloss.

The only down side to the finish is the cure time, I tried to wait atleast one week before I put my pistol back into the carry circle, I ended up waiting two weeks, and it still did not have a full cure.
Seems the magic number for a full 100% cure is almost a month, but once it cures it's tough!

make sure you get the surface prep stuff when you order, if you don't get a good clean surface it won't stick for long.

Brake cleaner did not work well for me on some test pieces, but MAF cleaner was a good substitute if all else fails.

Comments about BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE II AEROSOL, SEMI-GLOSS BLK:

I recently painted all metal parts of a Hi-Point 995 carbine including compensator, barrell shroud which is alum. and a complete Marlin 22 rifle including wood stock with 1 can.

On the wood stock I sanded & primed before applying AlumaHyde II. All metal parts were cleaned with TCE, rough spots with steel wool & sandpaper then cleaned again & allowed to dry.

This coating is very easy to apply using thin multiple coats. It covers very well & I had no problems with runs.

After drying for 7 days all parts appeared to be a factory finish. I have not used guns long enough to comment on durability of finish however it appears to be tuff.